So, now that we have our pattern we can get started... First the inner hood, which I'm making in a Japanese plonge leather. It's thin (0.5mm) and soft, with a velvety suede texture on the back side.The weird part is I'm making this layer inside-out. I want the smooth shiny surface on the outside, but I don't want any seams on the inside. So the shiny side is where I'm marking and sewing this hood (the opposite of what I'd usually do).
I place this sewn plonge inner hood on the form…
…and glue down all the seams.
Next I trace and cut (using my modified pattern) the foam parts.
This is half-inch thick foam...
The outer hood is made of a lamb-tan cowhide (Lamba from Sav-Mor) which is about 1.2mm thick. Very soft, and with a shiny outer surface.
I use spray adhesive to glue the foam layer parts to the inner hood.
Here you can see the gap for the rear lacing:
Once I've sewn the outer layer, I put it on the form inside out, just to check and see how everything is fitting.
Looks really nice. I want it to be nice and snug, but not too tight anywhere.
I end up gluing a layer of leather into the neck to stiffen it up a bit, and give it a little more structure.
I do another test fit, this time right-side out.
Everything looks okay... so it's time to glue the outer layer in place.
I don't want the chin to slip out of alignment, so I peel the outer layer (like a banana) and apply spray adhesive.
I fold it back and sew along the neck seam using the post-bed, locking the foam in place.I next fold and clip the rear opening, which is then topstitched along the edge.
The neck area of the inner and outer hoods are glued then pressed together. The bottom edge of the collar is then folded up and sewn.
Now the two hoods are completely locked together.
I put it back on the form and lace the hood up to help pull everything together.
I want the leather to take shape and rest overnight.
Just a couple more finishing touches, and this one is complete!