The bootie pattern started where they often do: with a plastic film and duct-tape wrap. I tried to divide the upper evenly in half down an imaginary centerline, and to create a pleasing shape for the sole. These are my three pieces:
Surprisingly, the upper came out almost perfectly symmetrical, which makes the pattern easier to work with and keeps the lines very clean. I extended the sole piece beyond the end of the foot, as I want it to come up and form the front part of the bootie as well.
I traced this first pattern onto a scrap of leather, and cut them out with about a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
I sewed and flattened the rear seam first.
Next, I sewed the first inch and a half of the upper near the toe and clipped the sole piece in place.
Even though the sole was asymmetrical, it aligned pretty well with the symmetrical upper pieces.
I inserted a D-ring at the toe before sewing the sole and uppers together.
Next comes the trimming and gluing of the seam allowance.
Actually, it's not done yet, but I like the shape already...
It already has the form and contour of the foot, which is a good sign.
Add a line of grommets, and we're ready for a test fit...
Hi. I am feeling inspired and motivated by your fab designs and willingness to share your expertise.I have bought a side of saddle leather, as well as a soft full hide, lots of tools, rivets, locking posts etc. Ready to start having a go, from a standing start. I had a go last night at producing a pair of bondage mitts. Unfortunately my partners sewing machine seemed to struggle sewing two pieces of leather together, and we suspect that a heavier duty machine is required. There are lots of second hand industrial and semi industrial,and even the old non electric singer type machines are stating suitable for sewing leather. Could you recommend the type of machine required for this type of work? Any help would be welcomed. Thanks
ReplyDeleteHi, and thanks for the note... I did some posts about the machine I use a while ago, and have meant to do an update. Having a good sewing machine makes all the difference if you are serious about working with leather. Even though you can buy leather needles for use with many portable machines, usually the motor isn't strong enough to drive the needle through.
DeleteAlso, a walking-foot machine helps feed the leather in an even, controlled manner. I use an Artisan 1797 AB, but comparable machines are available from Juki and Consew. You can find used machines on eBay at a discount, but they are not cheap!
One test I'd recommend: make sure the machine can sew through 4 thicknesses of the desired weight leather you will work with. You will often need to go through 4 thicknesses when setting d-rings, putting a rolled edge on a piece, or where seams come together.
Thanks for the reply. I will let you know how I get on and post some pics of my work. Regards, Hardiants.
DeleteWould love to see your work, and feel free to contact me with any questions!
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